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The View from Chennai

One woman's thoughts on urban planning and urban life in a south Indian metropolis.

10 December 2008

Development and Resistance

Development is a funny word -- it's a word that you can't argue against. How could anybody rationally be against such a positive concept? But resistance to development can be seen all over India, perhaps most visibly in the protests against the acquisition of land for building what are known as special economic zones, clusters of export oriented industry for which the government provides infrastructure services and tax incentives.

Last week, I attended a meeting about the process of land acquisition for special economic zones in Tamil Nadu. Dozens of these zones have been approved for the state, and the Tamil Nadu government claims that the process of land acquisition in the state has been completely without dissent. However, the experience of villagers has actually been very mixed. Many people have faced problems with the process of land acquisition: they have been forcibly evicted from their lands, they are arrested and harrassed for protesting against unfair treatment by the authorities, they receive far less than the value of their land from the government. They also lose their job security: after they sell their farmland, people find that they do not have the skills to actually work in the factories that are built there.

The more I listened to the stories of these villagers, in which the state appeared to be a villain that used the Land Acquisition Act as a weapon, the more I wondered -- why were so few people at the meeting? Only about 200 to 300 people came from the villages, surprising at a meeting which was supposed to address land issues for a wide range of SEZ projects all over Tamil Nadu, from Ennore port to Sriperumbudur. If the state had been iron fisted in acquiring land, why was there so little resistance in Tamil Nadu?

After talking to some attendees, I think I found the beginnings of an answer to this question.

Firstly, the pattern of urbanization in Tamil Nadu is such that the state is both highly urbanized relative to India as a whole (40% versus 27%) and that urban centers are spread out throughout the state. This means that most villages are within a one or two hour bus-ride of a major metropolis. As a result, even most farming families have one foot in urban economies -- they own a roadside stall which benefits from traffic to and from urban areas or they have one or two family members working in urban areas. So that means that there are few villages, or even few families, that end up as clear losers as a result of losing valuable agricultural land. -- There are no clear sites of resistance to land acquisition.

Secondly, this meeting was also entirely attended by landOWNERS. But apparently Tamil Nadu has the largest percentage of landless rural people in the country. These landless rural poor may not have any clear gains from agricultural land being converted to SEZ's, but they certainly also have nothing to lose.

These two factors are unique to Tamil Nadu, and may help to explain why the process of land acquisition for SEZ's here has been relatively smooth. Economic development is a positive phenomenon, but its benefits are highly unequally distributed in India. The meeting made clear, however, that the government still has not found a way to redistribute the benefits of development so that everyone wins.


You know you've been in Chennai too long when...


... the sight of a woman with dark brown skin and a bright yellow face doesn't make you blink. Women here often wear turmeric paste on their face, because it is good for your skin. But what about the number it does on your complexion?

08 December 2008

Language in south India

A piece by Vijay Nambisan in the India Foundation for the Arts' magazine made some interesting points about written and spoken languages in South India:

"... Malayalam is a highly diglossal language, much more so than any of its northern sisters. The farther south you go in India, I think, the further apart grow the written and spoken languages.... I can barely comprehend the newspapers, and most literary texts are closed books to me." (32)

I feel his pain -- as a near fluent speaker of one variety of Tamil (spoken in one place among one caste), it is a source of constant frustration to me that I have to concentrate to understand the news on Tamil Doordarshan or political speeches.

02 December 2008

The world's most perfect junk food

I thought the south Indian tiffin couldn't possibly get any better. I was wrong. The forces of globalization have created in Chennai the world's most perfect junk food: the cheese dosa. A paper thin rice flour crepe folded around a salty cheese filling. Served with sambar and three kinds of coconut chutney (!!!) at the Sangeetha Hotel near my house.

01 December 2008

Bombay on the mind, but not in Chennai, and V. P. Singh

The rains finally let up in Chennai, and today, except for the occasional stubborn puddle or whiff of sewage from a pipe that overflowed, it feels like they never happened. And even though Bombay is on the front of every newspaper, I don't feel the weight of that incident on the people of this city. Certainly, there is no fear, not even much conversation about it. Could it be that Tamilians feel that anywhere north of Bangalore is part of "North India," and, therefore, not part of the local consciousness? Or perhaps that the struggles of daily life here are so engrossing for the majority of the population that there is no time to fret?

In all the attention on Bombay and the weather in Tamil Nadu, one important event was almost entirely forgotten. The former Prime Minister of India V. P. Singh died on Thursday afternoon after a prolonged illness. He is best remembered for radically expanding India's caste-based affirmative action program during his eleven months in power. But I remember Singh for something much more recent. During the spate of slum evictions in Delhi between 2003 and 2006, Singh was the only political leader who consistently spoke out in favor of the slumdwellers. Even as the Delhi government bulldozed thousands of homes along the Yamuna River, Singh allowed the newly homeless to camp on the grounds of the house that he was given as an ex-Prime Minister. I think he was one of the last of that breed of gentlemen politicians who truly believed that an independent India would create a more socially just society.

28 November 2008

39 hours and counting

39 hours have passed since the beginning of the attacks in Bombay. Loud blasts were just heard at the Taj hotel, and a hundred (!) Indian commandos have invaded Nariman House and are trying to kill the estimated two to three armed militants inside. The whole episode seems to be a lesson in how much damage a handful of attackers with the aim of wreaking the most havoc possible without any regard for their own lives can do. Meanwhile, the rest of south Bombay seems to have settled into an eerie peace. Reports indicate that the attackers arrived on boats from the sea. They are young men, between 20 to 25 years old. One witness who saw the boats being unloaded at India Gate said that they looked well-off. Who are they? What do they want?

What is more worrisome to me now is that Narenda Modi, the Hindu fundamentalist leader who presided over Gujarat during riots that killed hundreds of Muslims, is now in Bombay. He released a statement blaming Pakistan for allowing terrorists to use its sea routes for the attacks, and added that Manmohan Singh’s public statement yesterday was “disappointing.” Before riots break out that could kill many, many times the number of people already affected, political leaders here need to take control, keep people like Modi quiet, and encourage all citizens to remain united and peaceful in the aftermath of the attacks. There is a real potential for widespread retaliatory violence that needs to be diffused. But where are the country’s leaders? They have been far too quiet.

In Chennai, we are far removed from the drama in Bombay, but many of the city's residents are watching the news anxiously. The rains have eased for the moment, but the sky is still overcast, and severe rains are predicted for this evening and night. I hope that this does not lead to further flooding.

27 November 2008

The nightmare in Bombay continues

I have been watching live reports from NDTV about the terrorist attacks in southern Bombay, and it is surreal, to say the least. As Barkha Datt finished her report in front of the Taj, we heard multiple rounds of gunshots in the background. Up to 200 people are still trapped in the Oberoi building, and as the news cameras watched, people in the hotel rooms waved to outsiders, pleading for help. As the sun set, the military entered the Oberoi, and began shooting at terrorists on the eighth floor of the building. Bombs just went off at the hotel, and fires are raging from some of the floors. There is still no clarity on so many things – on how many terrorists there are, on how many hostages, on what they want, on which organization they belong to.

Fire trucks without ladders have been straining to put out fires on the higher stories of the hotels. Policemen carrying shotguns and wearing shoddy uniforms are facing off against militants armed with hand grenades and AK-47s. As policemen stood with guns outside of places rumored to contain armed terrorists, curious passers-by peered over their shoulders into the buildings, and assembled in crowds in front of the hotels. This was absurd to watch.

Reports from people who have escaped from the Taj describe a nightmare – corpses lying around the hotel lobby and restaurants, terrorists indiscriminately firing machine guns at guests and staff. Guests escaped from rooms by climbing down on curtains and sheets tied together.

While India has faced repeated incidents of violence, I have naively always thought of violence as something that happens to others -- to people in Kashmir or the Northeast, to people who didn't have access to the support networks that I have here. My illusion of safety has been definitively shattered.

Meanwhile, severe rains continue for the third continuous day in Chennai. The streets are waterlogged, and homes are flooded. It is a replay of the last November I spent in Chennai.

25 November 2008

The long road to here

At work, I'm currently trying to understand the history of spatial planning in India. It hit me as I was reading just how fast and how much the ideologies motivating the Indian government have changed in the last few years. Nowadays, the widely accepted goal of urban planning is to provide the right incentives to make the private sector solve urban problems. But in 1957, when the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) was created to implement the city's newly written Master Plan, the first city plan in the country, it went about it in true socialist style -- by acquiring massive amounts of land, developing that land with infrastructure, and then leasing it to private developers and cooperative societies for building housing and commercial space according to the zonal dictates of the plan. Some 150 odd development authorities were set up in cities all over the country, all following the example set by Delhi.

Development authorities in India are now widely known to be some of the most corrupt institutions in the country. The large-scale transfers of money required to acquire land and build housing left plenty of room for siphoning off state funds. Development authorities in the major cities are big, bloated bureaucracies-- the DDA has at least 40,000 employees-- in which bribes are absolutely necessary to do anything. I recently heard a story that when the head of the Calcutta Metropolitan Development Authority tried to instate a rule that all employees had to collect their salaries in person, he faced stiff resistance from the families of people who were long dead who still collected their salaries!

Not only were they corrupt, but the development authorities were also ineffective at controlling urban growth. In Delhi, land acquisition was a slow process, and legal land from the DDA was scarce and expensive. In addition, standards for housing were set very high, making it hard for poorer residents to build houses that conformed to building regulations. As a result, the number of illegal buildings proliferated -- buildings that violated building laws or were built on land not authorized for construction. Entire neighborhoods came up without planning permission, both neighborhoods of the rich in which residents paid for their own electricity and water supply infrastructure as well as the hut clusters of poor. These so-called "unauthorized colonies" number more than 1,500 and house more than 20% of the city’s population.

Failure on such a massive scale is bewildering (as an aside: how far does a plan have to deviate from reality before people start questioning the very basis on which the plans were made?), and it likely explains the fervor with which people here have embraced the idea of market solutions to what are basically problems of governance. Having only spent time in India after liberalization, I can only imagine the disappointment that citizens felt as they watched institutions that embodied the socialist hopes of a young and independent India fail repeatedly and so thoroughly.

20 November 2008

Mexico City Mayor addresses basic needs of citizens

From the Mayor that brought you an ice-skating rink in Mexico City comes yet another brilliant policy: free Viagra for all Mexico City men aged 70 and older. The rationale? Mayor Marcelo Ebrard says that sex "has a lot to do with quality of life and our happiness." The mayoral seat in Mexico has been seen as a stepping stone to the Presidency. What better way to prove your worth as a politician than to keep your constituents happy? The government begins handing out pills on December 1st.

18 November 2008

Renting in Chennai

Will you bear with me for a few moments while I complain about the Chennai rental market? First of all, the quality of the housing here is terrible, especially for the price. The rental market here is very tight, and prices have skyrocketed in the last five years. Small two bedroom apartments near the beach go for Rs. 25,000 or more. Government flats, even those in terrible condition, go for over Rs. 10,000. There are no one-bedroom apartments, only unwieldy two or three bedroom ones.

The architecture of much of the newer housing makes no concessions to the unforgiving heat that blankets the city for most of the year. Ceilings are low and windows are placed with no thought to cross-ventilation – if there are any windows at all. And most apartments are dingy, dingy, dingy -- mosaic tiled floors that never look clean despite hours of scrubbing, bathrooms in which the corners are unspeakably dirty.

Second of all, not even the basics are guaranteed. Water is a constant problem in the city. Apartments with connections to Metrowater (the Chennai Corporation’s water provider which provides clean and fairly regular water for many citydwellers) are highly prized. But many apartments rely on groundwater, brought up from borewells. This water can be brown colored, and is often extremely salty. In places like Besant Nagar, the water is so salty that it corrodes metal pipes, pots, and pans and makes people’s hair fall out. Most apartments are not vermin-free: an apartment, especially on the ground floor, is subject to visits from rats, bandicoots, and cockroaches, and a small army of mosquitoes is currently conducting daily evening time offensives in my apartment. During the monsoons, constructions built in low-lying areas or on lakebeds regularly flood.

But the most noxious part of the entire process is the landlord. Lease agreements are negotiated here in an atmosphere of complete distrust, perhaps unsurprising in a country where taking someone to court for a violation of a contract is simply not a viable remedy. Landlords ask for 6 to 10 months of rent as an advance before they will agree to even prepare a lease, and if you break a lease within 11 months of moving in, you forfeit a month’s worth of rent. Costs for any repairs the landlord takes care of are usually cut from the advance before it is returned to you when you leave. And the timely return of an advance is not guaranteed.

I think that this atmosphere of distrust is part of the reason why you see so many rental advertisements in the papers that openly state that they rent only to Brahmins – perhaps they suspect that fellow-caste members would be less likely to cheat them out of rent or advance money.

That, and the fact that people here openly discriminate on the basis of caste. One potential landlord asked me whether I planned to cook eggs in the apartment – eggs were not permitted because he conducted pujas (religious ceremonies) in the home. This same gem of a landlord also told me that he once threw a tenant out who claimed to be a teetotaler when he found him smoking a cigar (I did not mention that technically, the tenant could still have been a teetotaler). Oh, and he refused pointblank to take care of any repairs.

Landlords also frequently police apartments for suspicious activities. I’m not talking about stopping tenants from selling narcotics or running a prostitution ring. Do you drink? Smoke? Bring home visitors of the opposite sex? Are you having pre-marital sex? Stay out late on a regular basis? Laugh loudly? All of these are fair game for a landlord’s questions and complaints. As a single female looking for an apartment, I was asked repeatedly whether I planned to have male visitors (what's a good answer to that question? Lots, if I'm lucky?). One landlord told me that he liked me a lot, but he had a policy of not renting to spinsters because they cause him too much trouble. That's right. In Chennai, at the age of 27, I’m already a troublesome spinster.

14 November 2008

Quote of the day

From Niall Ferguson's article "Wall Street Lays Another Egg" in Vanity Fair:

"There, in a nutshell, is one of the key concepts of the 20th century: the notion that property ownership enhances citizenship, and that therefore a property-owning democracy is more socially and politically stable than a democracy divided into an elite of landlords and a majority of property-less tenants. So deeply rooted is this idea in our political culture that it comes as a surprise to learn that it was invented just 70 years ago."


"The more Asia was willing to lend to the United States, the more Americans were willing to borrow. The Asian savings glut was thus the underlying cause of the surge in bank lending, bond issuance, and new derivative contracts that Planet Finance witnessed after 2000. It was the underlying cause of the hedge-fund population explosion. It was the underlying reason why private-equity partnerships were able to borrow money left, right, and center to finance leveraged buyouts. And it was the underlying reason why the U.S. mortgage market was so awash with cash by 2006 that you could get a 100 percent mortgage with no income, no job, and no assets."

12 November 2008

PPP Madness!

The Ministry of Urban Development and the Council of Indian Industries organized a conference in Delhi yesterday called "Public-Private-Partnerships -- The Learning Curve." According to news reports, the tone of the conference seems to be in line with much of the discussion in India around PPPs, which sees them as the quick-fix solution to pressing gaps in infrastructure financing in the country. Among successful cases PPPs cited by experts at the conference was the example of solid waste management in Chennai. This seems odd to me: Chennai in recent years has relied on private contractors for trash collection in parts of the city. But contracting out parts of infrastructure provision hardly addresses the infrastructure financing gap that everyone is talking about. Indeed, I have yet to see any evidence that contracting out public services in India actually reduces costs. Different kinds of PPPs provide different benefits for the government, but discussion around PPPs tends to be so superficial that the distinctions between different relationships between the public and private sector get lost. Indeed, PPPs like the Chennai solid waste management example still leave government with the massive role of monitoring the quality of private sector operations. Both the government and the public need to understand that there is no quick fix to the problem of urban infrastructure, and no alternative to improving the quality of governance in India.

Innovative data gathering and data presentation

I have a fascination with data -- how it is collected and how it can be presented well. Two data-related articles this week which caught my attention: First, UNESCO released a map of "hidden water," a high resolution map that shows where underground aquifers of freshwater are located throughout the world. Freshwater aquifers, which can be rechargeable but are not always so, contain 100 times the amount of fresh water available in surface sources at any given time. The UNESCO map shows just how many of these aquifers are located across country borders, underscoring the pressing need for global legislation on managing these water sources. Second, Google announced that it may be able to improve upon current methods to predict outbreaks of the flu by a week to 10 days by using data about where people are searching for information about flu symptoms and treatments. Google Flu Trends charts the frequency of such searches over time and across the US. A very clever use of all the data that Google has in its possession, but which also leads me to wonder how all this data could be used if Google were not so benevolent.

06 November 2008

Waste towers and a reconception of waste management

BLDGBLOG reports that a group of architects in London have proposed a series of "waste towers" across the city -- easily accessible recycling centers that can also provide energy for surrounding areas. These waste towers prompted BLDGBLOG to think about even more decentralized systems of recycling that would change the Western lifestyle and attitude towards trash. Meanwhile, how can Indian cities not make the same mistakes that Western cities made in trash management as they grow? An Indian solution to decentralized waste processing would likely look different from this proposed solution -- perhaps a decentralized system that is low-tech, low-cost, and labor intensive might be more appropriate to the financial and social context here.

30 October 2008

Support for Barack Obama from an unexpected source

Vaiko, the head of the Tamil political party, the MDMK, released his book about Barack Obama yesterday. The book was titled "Yes we can: Black People in Various Countries and the rise of the United State presidential candidate Barack Obama." I wonder what the book has to say about Dravidian history and its connection to Africa.

27 October 2008

Quote of the day



From The Hindu's article on a meeting of women bank officers: 

"It is often said that there is a woman behind every successful man. But how often have we heard of a man behind a successful woman?" asked chief guest I. B. Vijayalakshmi, cardiologist at the Jayadeva Institute of Cardiology. "You have not heard of one perhaps because such a man does not exist," she added. 

13 August 2008

Art and money

"Bolaño’s dishevelled, wandering characters are, more profoundly than they are left-wing, anti-bourgeois, which is to say disdainful of comfort, security and success: an attitude more than a politics, but the attitude is deeply felt. Even to write ‘marvellously well’, Bolaño declared, was not enough; ‘the quality of the writing’ depended on the author’s understanding ‘that literature is basically a dangerous calling’."

from Benjamin Kunkel's review of Bolano's Savage Detectives in the London Review of Books.

28 July 2008

More on cities and infrastructure.

"With nearly 300 million urban residents, India's cities contribute over 60% of GDP and account for more than 90% of Government revenues."

From the World Bank's Project Appraisal Document for the Third Tamil Nadu Urban Development Project, May 25, 2005.

"To reorient India's failed infrastructure policy, the government will have to reduce emphasis on user fee revenues and focus on providing cost-effective service to users. It must realize that infrastructure is not where you raise revenue; that is a function for taxes. Infrastructure is where you spend those taxes, which then generates more revenue through increased economic growth."

From Partha Mukhopadhyay's piece "Falling through the cracks: India's failing infrastructure policy."

28 May 2008

From Keith Gessen's "Money" in n+1

"And when you think of the long-standing idea of art in opposition to the dominant culture, if only by keeping its autonomy from the pursuit of money—the only common value great writers from right to left have acknowledged—you begin to sense what we have lost. Capitalism as a system for the equitable distribution of goods is troublesome enough; as a way of measuring success it is useless."

19 May 2008

Another quote on labor law --

"There are probably no longer any solid reasons to restrict a statute of labour's fundamental rights, such as the Statuto dei lavoratori only to those legally classified as 'employees' employed in productive units with more than fifteen employees.... The Statuto dei lavoratori was intended, as everybody knows, to bring the Constitution inside the factory gates. Some time ago, labour walked right through those factory gates and dispersed among the network of subcontractors, franchisees, and small service contractors. The Constitution too should be able to take a few steps in the same direction." -- Massimo D'Antona in "Labour Law at the Century's End," in Labour Law in an Era of Globalization, 2002.

15 May 2008

Einstein says....

"Everything in the world has changed except our thinking."

13 May 2008

A quote from Karl Klare about Labor

"As applied political theorists, labour lawyers should consider whether democracy and human self-determination may be better served by taking advantage of technological progress gradually to release people from paid work and to reduce its centrality as a life-activity (while maintaining living standards), rather than by intensifying people's commitments to paid employment (as seems to be implied in the traditional view). Conceivably, arranging flexible entry to and exit from well-compensated, flexibly scheduled jobs and between jobs and other life-contexts such as family community and education may contribute more to ending the subordination of workers than, say, a right to vote on enterprise financial planning." (19) from Labour Law in an Era of Globalization, a book that addresses the important questions about the changing context of work in the modern world.

28 April 2008

What I never understood about money ...

Today I read a totally silly article which suddenly made me realize what always puzzled me about money. The article was called "Anglers let big cash bonanza get away," published in Reuters on April 25, 2008. (I'm going to now sound like a complete simpleton.) The article is about three Hong Kong fishermen, one of whom is a housewife, who caught an 85 kg rare fish and sold it for HK $20,000. They thought they had really hit it big. Then the fish changed hands two more times, finally selling for HK $ 1 million to a businessman. The fishermen felt cheated.

Two things are weird about this to me. Firstly, the actual fish didn't change. It arguably lost value by the time of the third sale since it was probably rotting. But the price paid for it increased so much. No extra work had been put into the fish, but within three transactions and not more than 48 hours, the price of the fish rose by nearly a million dollars.

The second thing that's weird is that the people who initially sold it for $20,000 thought they had hit the jackpot, but when they later learned that the fish sold for HK$1 million, they realized they lost money. Yet, here again, nothing changed about their initial situation (their sale of the fish for $20,000). They still had the money. They had expended no more effort. So how were they the losers in this situation? But even my stomach churns for them! They were cheated!

Even though I know that this is a common and normal situation, I still find it difficult to understand how something is valued. How do we arrive at a consensus on what something is worth? And isn't it strange that people are able to profit off the process of reaching that consensus?

19 April 2008

The roots of revolutions, a quote via Cheryl

"Whether conditions in China had deteriorated to the extent to which a revolution was inevitable is perhaps besides the point, although this issue animates an impressive body of Western as well as Chinese scholarship. It takes more than oppression and misery to make a revolution... There is no threshold of human endurance beyond which human beings automatically become revolutionary. A revolution is the product of the human ability to reflect on one's conditions of existence and to work those reflections through a system of ideas that provides a vision of a more hopeful future, a social vision that exists at the level of the imaginary in that it conceives of something that does not yet exist" (Ann Anagnost, 34)

16 April 2008

From my notes, extreme frustration, March 16, 2006

It is typical of the development projects announced by the government in India that they are ambitious beyond belief -- as cartoonishly outsized as the 80 foot hoardings of political leaders erected before elections. Consider the plan to develop the Taj Mahal into a mall and tourist complex, complete with cineplex. Or the Marina Beach development project, where the Tamil Nadu government was going to built a state of the art administrative complex on the seashore. There are no 2-lane highway projects, only 6-lane superfast highways.

11 April 2008

The Important Numbers to Know

From Ashutosh Varshney's "Is India Becoming More Democratic?," Journal of Asian Studies

"
According to the 1991 census, the scheduled castes constituted about 16.5% of India's population, and the Scheduled Tribes 8.1%....The Mandal Commission, the only nationwide source available on the OBC's, suggests that Hindu OBC's constitute about 43.7% of the total population."

03 April 2008

Something to remember: Madras schools

According to the Draft Project Completion Report of the first Madras Urban Development Project (1984), 50% of the primary schools and the majority of secondary schools in Madras were private. I wonder what kind of implications this has for education policy, considering that Tamil Nadu has done so well on increasing literacy. If I remember correctly, Madras district has some of the lowest literacy rates next to extremely poor and rural districts like Dharmapuri.

01 April 2008

More on Obama

From "Obama is Moving to Down-to-Earth Oratory," The New York Times, April 1, 2008

“The problem with talking about hope all the time is that these are not hopeful lands; Obama is talking change to people who equate change with life getting worse,” said Hank Sheinkopf, a Democratic Party consultant who has studied the political culture of these working-class states with a Talmudic intensity.

...

“If you’re an unemployed steelworker, a former coal miner, you want to know about job training, who pays your health care,” Dr. Madonna said. “Obama’s speeches are uplifting but without much specificity, and that’s a tough sell for working people who don’t live in a world of ideas.”

28 March 2008

The best thing I've read on the election

From Paul Krugman's column "Loans and Leadership," March 28, 2008, New York Times

"All in all, the candidates’ positions on the mortgage crisis tell the same tale as their positions on health care: a tale that is seriously at odds with the way they’re often portrayed.

Mr. McCain, we’re told, is a straight-talking maverick. But on domestic policy, he offers neither straight talk nor originality; instead, he panders shamelessly to right-wing ideologues.

Mrs. Clinton, we’re assured by sources right and left, tortures puppies and eats babies. But her policy proposals continue to be surprisingly bold and progressive.

Finally, Mr. Obama is widely portrayed, not least by himself, as a transformational figure who will usher in a new era. But his actual policy proposals, though liberal, tend to be cautious and relatively orthodox.

Do these policy comparisons really tell us what each candidate would be like as president? Not necessarily — but they’re the best guide we have."

19 March 2008

The choice: A good life or doing good in life?

From "For Top Medical Students, Appearance Matters," The New York Times, March 19, 2008

"'It is an unfortunate circumstance that you can spend an hour with a patient treating them for diabetes and hypertension and make $100, or you can do Botox and make $2,000 in the same time,' said Dr. Eric C. Parlette, 35, a dermatologist in Chestnut Hill, Mass., who chose his field because he wanted to perform procedures, like skin-cancer surgery and cosmetic treatments, while keeping regular hours and earning a rewarding salary."

16 March 2008

The American Way

From "No Man's Land" by Eula Biss, The Believer, February 2008:

"Every society is threatened by a nearly infinite number of dangers, Glassner writes, but societies differ in what they choose to fear. Americans, interestingly, tend to be most preoccupied with those dangers that are among the least likely to cause us harm, while we ignore the problems that are hurting the greatest number of people. We suffer from a national confusion between true threats and imagined threats. And our imagined threats, Glassner argues, very often serve to mask true threats.

Quite a bit of noise, for example, is made about the minuscule risk that our children might be molested by strange pedophiles, while in reality most children who are sexually molested are molested by close relatives in their own homes. The greatest risk factor for these children is not the proximity of a pedophile or a pervert but the poverty in which they tend to live.

...

The word pioneer betrays a disturbing willingness to repeat the worst mistake of the pioneers of the American West—the mistake of considering an inhabited place uninhabited. To imagine oneself as a pioneer in a place as densely populated as Chicago is either to deny the existence of your neighbors or to cast them as natives who must be displaced. Either way, it is a hostile fantasy."

12 March 2008

Taxation?

This new article about the richest people in the world has a number of Indians, the Ambani brothers, Lakshmi Mittal, the DLF chairman. It made me curious -- how much of their income do they pay in tax? What percentage of Indian tax revenues comes from its richest people? Is this the best way to earn tax revenues?

11 March 2008

Microlending and the Cult of the Entrepreneur

There is an interesting article in the New Yorker's Financial Page online on micro-lending called "What Microloans Miss." Surowiecki argues that micro-loans may help to make individual borrowers better off, but it does not help to bring a country out of poverty. While micro-loans are meant to help small businesses grow, they are usually used for non-business expenses, like education or health costs. Most micro-businesses also only have one employee, the owner. But increased numbers of jobs are what will allow a country to pull itself out of poverty. These jobs will normally come not from micro-enterprises, but small and medium sized firms, which provide 60% of the jobs in developed countries, but are largely missing in developing countries (a phenomenon known as the "missing middle"). He says, "[m]icrofinance evangelists sometimes make it sound as if, in an ideal world, everyone would own his own business." But in fact, only 14% of Americans own their own business, while in a country like Peru that number is almost 40%, not because Peruvians are more entrepreneurial, but because most Peruvians do not have access to the kinds of jobs that Americans have. Surowiecki argues that real poverty reduction strategies should target improving the small and medium sized business sector because these really generate more jobs.

09 March 2008

One last one from Hobsbawm

From The New Century

"We should not forget that, whatever yardstick is used, the majority of peoples are better off at the end of the twentieth century, in spite of the extraordinary catastrophes that have marked it....Overall, we have today three times the population there was at the start of the twentieth century, and all these people are physically stronger, taller, longer living and healthier. They suffer less hunger and famine, enjoy a higher income, and have an immeasurably greater access to goods and services, including those which guarantee greater opportunities in life, such as education.... This is also true of poorer countries. After all, there has not been a famine in India since 1943."

08 March 2008

From Amita Baviskar's speech at MIDS, 2005

"The cultural politics of environment and development demand that we make the connections between poverty and unbridled consumerism of a privileged class, its sense that it can have it all, aspirations that can never be met without sacrificing someone or something."

Malcolm Adiseshiah Award Ceremony Speech

From David Mosse's "Tank Irrigation in South India"

"If tank systems declined under colonial rule, then it was the result of this isolation of resource management from the wider political relations through which it had been organized." (315)

"The legitimate need to generalize 'design principles' for farmer-controlled irrigation here, no less than the colonial administration's use of 'custom' involves an institutional isolation of resource management from its particular historical and social context, and, in doing so overlooks the importance of political relations and the 'cultural' construction of natural resources." (304)

"The extension of state power which lay behind the regimentation of 'local knowledge' and invention of tradition was hardly disguised." (312)

04 March 2008

From my summer notes (from Phil)

From Wallace Stevens' "The Solitude of Cataracts"

"There was so much that was real that was not real at all.
He wanted to feel the same way over and over."

From Eric Hobsbawm
"The greatest cruelties of our century have been the impersonal cruelties of removed decision, of system and routine, especially when they could be justified as regrettable operational necessities."

From The Age of Extremes

"During the short twentieth century, more human beings had been killed or allowed to die by human decision than ever before in history." (12)

"It is not easy to grasp the extent of the, unfortunately accelerating, return to what our nineteenth century ancestors would have called the standards of barbarism... We forget that an international convention once provided that hostilities in war 'must not commence without previous and explicit warning in the form of a reasoned declaration of war or of an ultimatum with conditional declaration of war,' for when was the last war that began with such an explicit or implicit declaration?" (13)

He quotes the following from Rules as to Bombardment by Aircraft, 1921
"It may be thought better, in view of the allegations of "barbarity" of air attacks, to preserve appearances by formulating milder rules and by still nominally confining bombardment to targets which are strictly military in character....to avoid emphasizing the truth that air warfare has made such restrictions obsolete and impossible. It may be some time until another war occurs and meanwhile the public may become educated as to the meaning of air power." (21)

From The Age of Capital

1848 "marked the end, at least in Europe, of the politics of tradition, of the monarchies which believed that their peoples accepted, even welcomed, the rule of divinely appointed dynasties presiding over hierarchically stratified societies.... Henceforth, the forces of conservatism, privilege and wealth would have to defend themselves in new ways." (39)

The unprecedented economic boom after the revolutions of 1848 "gave the governments shaken by the revolution invaluable breathing space and conversely wrecked the hopes of the revolutionaries." (45) Between 1800 and 1840, world trade did not even double. Between 1850 and 1870, there was a 260% increase. There were two, maybe three, preconditions to this massive increase in trade -- the railroad, the telegraph, and to a lesser extent the gold rushes which provided the capital.

03 March 2008

From Sam Bass-Warner's "The Private City," 1968

This summary is not available. Please click here to view the post.

02 March 2008

Two quotes I recently read on food

From "UN Agency Cuts Food Rations for Sudan Victims," New York Times, April 29, 2007.

"The World Food Program, the United Nations agency responsible for feeding three million people affected by the conflict in Darfur, in western Sudan, announced Friday that it would cut in half the amount of food it distributed there because it was short of money.

The food program said it had received just a third of the $746 million it had requested from donor nations for all of its operations in Sudan. As a result, individual rations that include grain, blended foods, beans, oil, sugar and salt for people in Darfur, where a brutal ethnic and political conflict has raged since 2003, will be reduced from 2,100 calories a day to 1,050 calories — about half the level the agency recommends.

In March, the agency announced an initial cut of sugar, salt and beans to some Darfur residents, but that reduction did not include grain, blended foods or oil, the rations' main sources of calories."

From Graham Hancock's The Lords of Poverty, 1989

Describing the events during the joint annual meeting of the Boards of Governors of the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund attended by 10,000 people.

"The total cost of the 700 social events laid on for delegates during that single week was estimated at $10 million..... Ridgewells, a well known Washington catering company, prepared twenty nine parties in one day alone, according to executive Jeff Ellis who added: 'This year the hosts want more expensive menus, and they're inviting 30 per cent more people. No one is stinting -- but, then, they never have." A single formal dinner catered by Ridgewells cost $200 per person. Guests began with crab cakes, caviare and creme fraiche, smoked salmon and mini beef Wellingtons. The fish course was lobster with corn rounds followed by citrus sorbet. The entree was duck with lime sauce, served with artichoke bottoms filled with baby carrots. A hearts of palm salad was also offered accompanied by sage cheese souffles with a port wine dressing. Dessert was a German chocolate turnip sauced with raspberry coulis, ice-cream bonbons and flaming coffee royale." (38)

Quote from the Draft Rural Employment Guarantee Act, 2004

The Rural Employment Guarantee Act was supposed to guarantee 100 days of employment to any rural resident willing to do manual labor.

Among the entitlements of labourers according to the 2004 draft of the Act is the following:

"(2) The following facilities shall be available at the worksites: (1) safe drinking water; (ii) shade for small children and periods of rest; (iii) a first-aid box with adequate material for emergency treatment of minor injuries, strokes, body aches and other health hazards connected with the work being performed."

Water and shade? It is astounding to me how minimal these entitlements are.

23 June 2007

DELHI DEEDS


(This is an article I wrote in January of 2005. I'm re-posting it now because it is simpler to have one place to post writings.)


Even the elites among us must suffer gross injustice at the hands of the Municipal Corporation of Delhi. According to this article, the top brass of the MCD have been desperately vying for membership at the India Habitat Center, one of the most exclusive clubs in the Capital. However, old MCD officials who refuse to give up their membership cards are standing in their way. But never fear: the article assures us that one new MCD official “is understood to have sent several letters… to make him a member at the earliest.” Good to see the MCD assiduously battling injustice in every corner of the city!

Meanwhile, the city’s poorest are caught in the battle between the two behemoth bureaucracies that run Delhi, the MCD and the Delhi Development Authority. The banks of the Yamuna River (called the Yamuna Pushta) in the center of Delhi were cleared of its 150,000 odd residents by the DDA in early 2004 to make way for a large park and tourist destination. Since the massive evictions, keeping this area clear has been causing nothing but headaches for the DDA. Firstly, former residents, many of whom had lived on the Yamuna banks for decades, kept returning to the rubble of their old homes. The DDA was finally forced to call in the Home Guard to keep these “encroachers” off the land.

Now, even the MCD seems out to ruin the DDA’s plans. On January 5, the MCD announced that 1,167 vendors who were kicked out of the kabari bazaar behind Red Fort after an attack on the Fort in 2000 would be given vacant land in the Yamuna Pushta to reopen their stalls. After significant opposition from DDA officials who feared that this would lead to slums being put up in the Pushta again, the MCD cancelled the allotment. The DDA was apparently prepared to fight. According to this article, the DDA hired private guards and warned the Delhi police that there might be violence if the MCD continued with their plan. Sadly, the vendors had already been given their allotments, and many of them came in the morning to set up their wares. They were blocked from the area by police and para-military personnel.

If only the DDA would pause to think for a moment about the reasons why people would continually try to return to an area covered in rubble to live under plastic sheets. It is because the location is central to their livelihoods—as rickshaw pullers, street vendors, domestic servants, etc—and their livelihoods are central to the way in which we all live our lives in Delhi.

MEDIA WATCH


(This is an article I wrote in January of 2005. I'm posting it here now to have all my writing in one place.)

On October 9th, 2004, a small but very strange article appeared in the Chennai edition of The Hindu. This article reported that the current Tamil Nadu Chief Minister J. Jayalalithaa had been awarded the “Golden Star of Honor and Dignity Award” by the International Human Rights Defence Committee (IHRDC), a Ukrainian human rights organization. The article was based on a press release from the AIDMK party, which Jayalalithaa heads. The press release was also picked up by a couple of news wires, and the story appeared in Indiadaily.com, The Hindustan Times, and The Economic Times among others.

On October 12th, supporters of Jayalalithaa, known as the “Puratchi Thalaivi” or Revolutionary Leader, took out full page ads in the back of The Hindu congratulating her for receiving the award. The advertisement noted that the presentation ceremony, oddly enough, was not held in the Ukraine, but in Chennai on October 11th. The press release also stated that past winners of the award include Kofi Annan, as well as the increasingly authoritarian Vladimir Putin.

No news in English is available on the activities of the Ukrainian organization on the internet outside of their own website, which is also silent on specifics about their activities outside of awarding human rights awards. Although the press release from the AIDMK states that the IHRDC is a consultative body to the UN, no available UN documents mention their name.

The award was conferred upon Jayalalithaa by Alfred Kitcher, the director of the IHRDC, who is also the head of the World Transformation Church currently operating in the Ukraine. The aims of the World Transformation Church, according to their own website, are “to serve in an apostolic and prophetic capacity to nations (governments) and peoples by bringing forth relevant ministry in the fields of national reconstruction and development, economic growth, prosperity and self reliance.”

That the newspapers failed to remark on the fact that the Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu received a highly publicized human rights award from a dubious Ukrainian organization headed by a man whose apparent aim is to merge Church and State in the Ukraine is strange. What is stranger is that the newspapers failed to mention in a single one of these articles that the Puratchi Thalaivi’s record on human rights is abysmal.

She has thrown numerous political opponents in jail under the Prevention of Terrorism Act (POTA), most famously Vaiko, the MDMK leader who languished for 577 days in a cell in Vellore. Under her watch, inter-caste violence in Tamil Nadu has seen a sharp increase; it is said that her party instigates such caste rivalries. When teachers and government employees dared to strike in 2003 protesting a cut in their pensions, she fired 200,000 of them, effectively paralyzing their right to strike. Her party is also widely acknowledged to be highly corrupt, a fair indication of the fact that the Jayalalithaa government’s priorities are not with the people.

Why, then, did an article reporting that Jayalalithaa was given an award for her commitment to human rights appear without comment in so many Indian newspapers? That it ran in The Hindu is particularly surprising; it was less than a year ago that the notoriously willful Chief Minister had attempted to have The Hindu’s senior editorial staff thrown in jail because they had described her speeches in the state legislative assembly as “stinging abuse” and “unrestrained attacks on the Opposition.”

The news media, without exception, failed to question any of the claims made in the AIDMK press release. It is such uncritical reporting that increases the legitimacy of political leaders who fail to observe the most basic limits on their power, and allows them to stay in power at great cost to the Indian people.

26 April 2006

Post Script

According to a friend of mine who works closely with the fishermen in the city, the kuppam in Triplicane has an interesting story about their relationship with the Parthasarathy Temple there. The fishermen claim that the temple actually used to be theirs, but that they ceded control over it a long time ago, although they still participate in many of the temple rituals. Ironically, the temple board is now claiming that the fishermen are encroaching on temple land, so the fishermen are fighting to stay on land that was once all theirs.

This makes sense. Even the Kapaleeswar Temple in Mylapore apparently used to be located right on the seashore. It, too, must have been a fishermen’s temple before it was moved inland.

18 April 2006

The heat and the temple festivals

(I wrote this post a few days back, but I have been traveling and having some trouble with my computer.)

The heat has settled like a woolen blanket over the city, and people are adjusting as best they can. Vendors line up wedges of watermelon under glass covers to keep out the flies. These and tender coconut water sell quickly. An institution trying to do a good deed in Madras these days might mix buttermilk and salt in big buckets and hand glasses of it out on crowded streets.

It is also a time of temple festivals in Madras. The idols of each temple must be aired regularly; they’re taken out of their sanctums and taken around the streets. I attended the festivities at two of the oldest temples in the city, the first at the Kapaleeswar Temple in Mylapore. Near my house at the Marundeeswar Temple in Tiruvanmiyur, I saw two parts of the festival, and I liked it better than the one in Mylapore. Here, too, the temple deity, Shiva in the form of Marundeeswar, was taken on procession in the middle of the day. The chariot was a high one, with the deity and the priests standing at least 6 or 7 feet above the crowd, and devotees using two long ropes pulled the deity around the temple.

A few nights before that, I had gone out to dinner with a friend of mine. We were talking very late, till midnight, so he walked me home. As we turned into the area in front of the temple tank in Tiruvanmiyur, we saw a crowd under the large maidan where a band was playing. In the middle of the crowd was an enormous palanquin, on which was placed the decorated idol of Shiva, carried by a large group of young men. The idol was held facing the door of the temple. Two red flags flanked the palanquin with the sun and moon on them (Surya and Chandra), as well as two lamps. To our delight (we are both serious Bharata Natyam dancers), the idol danced! The palanquin bearers rocked the deity from side to side, while running back and forth on the maidan, the idol making a graceful zig zag. The lamps were moved up and down with the rocking and the flags were spun, horns were blown and drums were beaten, showing how the universe itself spun when Shiva danced.

More than the idol, I was mesmerized by the palanquin bearers who were intensely concentrated on their movements, at the degree of coordination needed in a group of that size in order to make the deity perform its intricate dance. Eight young men bearing Ambal’s palanquin ahead of Shiva did a pradakshanam around him, executing a kind of complex two step as they carried her. These men were closer to me, I could see their knitted brows, their profuse sweating, the order and beauty they carved as they progressed through the chaos of the crowds and smoke. These were obviously not priests, and because local people were involved with the rituals of the temple, this festival seemed to be much more concerned with reinforcing bonds of community, a kind of collective adoration of the god rather than the kind of individual awe invoked in bigger temples like the Brihadeeshwara in Tanjavur or in a cathedrals.

History, as I found in my reading, supports this intuition. The nadanam or dancing of the idol has been taking place in Tiruvanmiyur (thought to be at least 1,200 years old) and in a series of other temples in Tamil Nadu for hundreds of years. These boys who hold the palanquin were exercising hereditary rights to participate in temple rituals held by certain of the fishing communities in Madras in the temples of Tiruvanmiyur, Parthasarathy in Triplicane, Tiruvottriyur, Kapaleeswar in Mylapore and others. Srinivasapuram, the slum I’m studying, was born out of one such kuppam or fishing community, called Mulli Kuppam, which has a long recorded history. An important part of my project now has become about trying to find the earliest recorded mentions of this kuppam, which have proven and will prove to be useful in the slum’s struggle for rights to their land.

One historian of Madras, B. M. Thirunaranan, posited in a volume of essays written for the tercentenary celebrations for the city in 1939 that in the early days of the spread of agriculture, most of the early settlers in this area must have been fishermen. Slowly, as in-land lagoons dried, leaving behind clayey rich dirt, farming became more popular. He suggests that the early farmers, because they were in a minority, exchanged ritual status in the temples for permission from the fishermen to build and expand their holdings. The Kapaleeswar temple was originally built directly on the seashore, and then moved inland. When the British landed in what is now Madras in the 1600s, there was no city, only a handful of fishing villages. Madras the city was formed from the amalgamation of these villages and centered around Fort St. George.

Unlike most poor communities in the cities, the largest slums of Madras are built around the oldest residents, these fishermen. Their claims to traditional land rights will prove very important in the struggle for rights and resources after the tsunami.


09 April 2006

A New Leaf Turned




I suppose I should start by introducing myself. My name is Nithya, and I live in Madras. I’ve been living here since last July, and most of the time, I still feel that I’m a newcomer to the city. Some time last October, I went with some union organizers to a meeting in Srinivasapuram, a cluster of Slum Clearance Board tenements and huts on one end of Marina Beach, next to where the Adyar River meets the ocean. Srinivasapuram is a striking place. It’s a slum on the beachside, and, like no other place I’ve ever seen, manages to visually encapsulate the dramatic fight between classes in the shaping of the modern Indian city. (The photographs here are not the best but they convey the basic idea, i'll try for some better ones.) Skeletons of gargantuan buildings now under construction on the opposite shore of the Adyar River loom menacingly like an advancing army over the roofs of tenements and huts.

I was later to find out that this visual drama is reflected in recent contentious history. In 2003, the community, along with other citizens’ groups in the city, fought against the Tamil Nadu government who wanted to build a Rs. 500 crore administrative and corporate complex along the beach. The beach, which was envisioned by one of the earliest governors in Madras Elihu Yale to be a “lung” for the city, was saved for the moment by the work of these groups. But the problem of eviction from their valuable beachside lands came up again in a different form a few years later.

On December 26, 2004, Srinivasapuram lost over 50 lives to the tsunami, as well as numerous homes and valuable property. As relief and rehabilitation became the stuff of daily news, Srinivaspuram residents were asked to leave their homes and move to temporary housing in Thoraipakkam, a strip of marshy land well inland. Some residents were intimidated into moving, but most refused and have stayed on in Srinivasapuram. Those who moved found that the temporary housing conditions were awful, tin huts that baked like ovens in the sun in an area that was far from any government services and sources of livelihood. Many have since returned. Residents and many of the groups working in Srinivasapuram felt that the temporary housing Thoraipakkam was part of a larger effort to move those residents of the beach who had the strongest claims to the land, the fishermen, away from their homes.

At their heart, questions of eviction in India tend to be closely allied with questions of modernity and development. What should a modern Indian city look like? For whom should it be built and maintained? What idea of the city do its citizens have and how is it different from that of the city’s government and bureaucrats? These are some of the questions I wanted to illuminate by looking closely at how the government and citizens have laid claim to the Srinivasapuram land, both in their day to day interactions and in their legal and official communications, as well as in media coverage.

I’ve been working regularly on my project, communicating with groups in Srinivasapuram and researching the history of slums, fishermen’s communities, and poverty in Madras. But it’s been hard to post because, to me, a posting seems like it should have some answers, whereas the longer I work in Madras, the more questions I have and the more complicated my answers have become. So I decided at this late moment in the game that I would use my blog, in the hopes that the blog format, forgiving and informal as it is, would allow me to put my writings and thoughts from Chennai more regularly in front of the SARAI community. I’ll discuss some of the difficulties I’ve faced in my research, many of the complications that have arisen in my original ideas, and also throw in some interesting asides from my life in the city.

Please check back frequently over the next three months, and please comment on the site. And wish me luck!

08 March 2006

Rain and Relief

1.

Following politics in India is cultivating a taste for the absurd. My taste has been honed in great part by the style of political reporting in the English papers. Most stories are printed without any editorializing or analysis, no background to debates, no histories for events, and, most puzzlingly, no expansions of any of the acronyms. Absurdity stands in stark relief, to be appreciated all the better.

Take this recent example. Last month, an article appeared on the Hindu’s front page reporting that Jayalalithaa, AIDMK leader and current Chief Minister of the state, had excoriated the Central government because they had “surreptitiously blocked” her plans to build a desalination plant to provide drinking water for the city. How exactly had they done this? Apparently, A. Raja, the central government’s Minister for Environment and Forests and a member of the opposition DMK party in Tamil Nadu, had “raised all sorts of queries about the project. Jayalalithaa’s tirade against Raja is quoted at length in the article:

“It is amazing how queries relating to the impact of the project on biological entities especially fish and shell fish population in the area, its likely impact on the livelihood of the coastal community, management and disposal method of sludge and solid waste generated, as also the characteristics of the sludge have been raised.”

What is most amazing about Raja’s questions is how reasonable they are, a rare case of an environment minister looking closely at the range of potential damage of a high cost development project. But the article itself says nothing beyond quoting Jayalalithaa. It doesn’t mention, for example, that despite terrible water problems in the city, there has been considerable citizen opposition to the desalination plant, based on concerns similar to Raja’s. Nor does the article mention that cheaper and less energy intensive solutions exist to the water problem, but that these might be less attractive to a politician looking to gain political mileage before the upcoming elections. The article does not even mention that there are upcoming elections. Instead, the article goes on to quote Jayalalithaa again:

“[Raja’s] unscrupulous perfidy against the people of Tamil Nadu tears apart the smokescreen of pretence and deceit of bringing projects and programmes for the people of Tamil Nadu practiced by the DPA, which has 12 Ministers in the Union Cabinet.”

Never mind that this sentence is barely sensible; that’s its point. Any attempt at debate over Jayalalithaa’s policy measures will be immediately squelched by her paranoid and fanatical cries of partisanship. And still, the newspaper says nothing.

I used to think that this kind of reporting was a peculiarly Indian journalistic style or, more unfairly, the product of sheer ineptitude. But I’m beginning to think that such deadpan reporting is the product of extreme cynicism about the government by citizens, unsurprising in a country where a recent bill to prevent convicted criminals from running for office was the subject of heated debate. At the same time, I understand why many reporters shy away from context or narratives in India. Any one narrative about a story – the evil state v. the innocent tribals, the good muslims v. the enraged Hindus – is often dissatisfactory. The numerous facts of a story push and pull at the edges of such a narrative until all but the most persistent political observers shy away from trying to put politics into such linear understandings.

2.

In October of 2005, one of the most severe monsoons in Tamil Nadu in the past 25 years began. Some 200 centimeters of rain fell over three months[1], most of it in five two to three day bouts, causing extensive flooding in 22 districts in the state. In the city of Chennai, reservoirs, rivers and canals overflowed their banks, and houses and roads were damaged, especially thatched huts. Parts of the city were submerged for weeks after the rains ended due to a distressing lack of city planning and poor maintenance of drainage systems. Many people were stranded in their homes, unable to attend work or school.

The morning after the first and most severe bout of rains, the newspapers printed Jayalalithaa’s assurances that her government was dealing with the situation on a “war footing.” In practice, it was unclear exactly what this meant for the government. One reporter I spoke with suggested that war footing meant a blanket sanction for ad hoc measures to deal with the rain. While major emergencies were handled well by the government, with one of the world’s largest standing armies helping in many areas of Tamil Nadu to evacuate thousands of people, manage emergency shelters, and prevent extensive flooding of riverside cities, much of the less dramatic aspects of disaster management was handled by citizens. In parts of North Chennai such as Mogappair, colonies had been constructed on dried lake beds, and homes were still submerged long after rains had stopped. Frustrated residents began digging canals through roads to release the water. Many upscale establishments used electric pumps to remove water from their own property; most emptied it directly onto the roads.

The morning after a severe period of rains in early December, I was returning to Chennai from Vellore with a large group. National Highway 4, a newly constructed road, connects the cities. Traffic was forced onto one side of the highway, as a river of rainwater flowed down the other lane, prevented from crossing over by a low divider. In the farmlands on both sides of the highway, water had collected in large pools with houses, cars, tractors, and the triangular tops of thatched huts awkwardly jutting out. Groups of men wandered the roads, their chappals in their hands and their pants and dhotis rolled up high. They directed traffic, passed news about road conditions to anxious travelers and generally kept spirits high with their geniality, giving the whole experience a kind of carnival-like atmosphere. Once we saw a bus crookedly sunken into the water, having fallen off a submerged road into the fields beside it. Another bus, ignoring the warning, brazenly sped by on the road, sending up great sheets of water on either side, its passengers nervously leaning out the windows as bystanders hooted and jeered the grinning driver on. On the entire 145 kilometer stretch of NH4 between Vellore and Chennai, I didn’t see a single government official or person in uniform till we returned to the heart of the city.

3.

While in rural areas, numerous people drowned, the rains themselves did not cause many deaths in the city beyond a handful of electrocutions. Ironically, what caused deaths – nearly 50 people dead and many more severely injured – were stampedes at centers set up to distribute relief materials to those affected by the floods. Jayalalithaa, mindful that this was an election year, determined that each household affected by the rains should receive 10 kilograms of rice, a liter of kerosene, a sari, a dhoti, and two thousand rupees cash, a huge amount by any standards. Affected streets were chosen by officials from the Collector’s office, and anyone on these streets with a ration card, regardless of whether they lived in thatched huts or cement houses, was eligible for relief materials.

The initial round of relief distribution caused a maelstrom of activity. Opposition politicians, unable to sit quietly as the AIDMK gave large and legal cash handouts to voters, loudly complained that relief distribution was inadequate and directed towards AIDMK strongholds, and demanded Jayalalithaa’s resignation. Citizens protested all over the city, blocking traffic on main roads and mobbing the houses of municipal officers, demanding that more areas be given relief. It being an election year, the government responded. All in all, three lists were drawn up of affected areas, ensuring that nearly everybody with a ration card in the city was eligible for relief.

Early on a Sunday morning in Vyasarpadi on November 6th, six people died in a stampede at a government school while waiting to collect relief materials. A little over a month later on December 18th, in MGR Nagar, a shocking 42 people died in another stampede at a government school at 4:00 am. An article in Frontline described the events:

“The victims, 23 of them women, were part of a large group of people who had patiently waited on a slushy road all through the night, braving intermittent rain, to collect tokens for receiving state assistance… The two tragedies had some strikingly similar features. Both occurred on Sundays, in the early hours of the day, and after large numbers of people waited in despair for long hours under inadequate protection.”

Nearly 9,000 families were eligible to collect their supplies from this relief center. On the first day, 3,452 families came. That means that approximately 5,000 families were still due to collect relief the next day. Relief seekers gathered from Saturday night to be first in line for Sunday’s relief distribution. Yet the police only posted three men at the center during the night, even as crowds swelled to 4,000 people in the early hours of the morning. Some news reports mentioned that a police truck drove into the area, leading relief seekers to believe that token distribution had begun and they began pushing forward causing a stampede.[2] Others blamed a sudden downpour.[3]

News about the stampede quickly descended into dreary politicking. Jayalalithaa announced compensation of a lakh rupees to families of the dead, and 15,000 to each of the injured. Opposition parties again called for her immediate resignation. Jayalalithaa managed to reduce even a stampede at a relief center into partisan misbehavior, publicly blaming the deaths on “rumors” about Sunday being the last day for relief distribution spread by “some culprits and miscreants…who want to bring a bad name to the government.” Within three days she had arrested her miscreant, predictably, a DMK member and a ward councilor from the area, Dhanasekaran.

A newspaper article that described Dhanasekaran’s arrest mentioned that he was a heart patient and required medicines and regular treatment, but did not mention that had there been adequate police protection, not even the most outrageous rumors could have caused a stampede. The government also decided that since Sundays seemed to cause a problem for relief distribution, they would do away with distribution on Sundays,[4] thereby forcing families who needed the money because they missed work on rainy days to miss another day of work to collect it. The Supreme Court later dismissed the claims made by the Chief Minister about “miscreants,” saying succinctly that “[r]umor means there is no source… the incident took place because the officers were not making preparations for providing flood relief.” Dhanasekaran and his friends were released, and the press has since forgotten about the incidents.

4.

Photographs from the MGR Nagar stampede were horrific, women and children wailing, and the bodies of the dead with their faces bloated and purple. Unlike dreary newspaper reporting about the incident, which seemed to take the occurrence of the stampede almost for granted, the question of how the stampede could have occurred refused to be so easily dismissed by the photographs.

I knew little about the procedures for relief seekers, so I met Mr. Rajendra Babu, Corporation Chairman of Zone 10 at his Adyar office. He was surrounded by a group of men, none of whom seemed to have any pressing business with him. They moved aside when I came forward, but stayed and listened to our conversation and murmured their assents whenever Mr. Babu spoke, and sometimes answered one of Mr. Babu’s three cell phones when they rang.

Mr. Babu assured me that procedures for collecting flood relief were very straightforward. Street by street identifications of affected areas by revenue officers and officials from the Collectors’ office meant there were fewer chances of people complaining about partisan favoritism. Relief was given out in such large amounts because each time it rained, people could not go to work and they had lost their earnings repeatedly during these months. “Whoever got left out from the first round of relief, we put on the second list. And then we made a third list of streets.” Announcements were made in every area clarifying when and where and for whom flood relief distribution would take place. When I asked him about the level of damage to houses that would help classify an area as affected, he looked around the room and laughed. “One house fell in Arunachalam Nagar. That’s it. I saw it myself. Only encroachers suffered,” he said, referring to the numerous thatched huts in the city without land deeds, often built precariously on the banks of canals and waterways, “only the encroachers really suffered.”

Yet, while both newspaper accounts and official statements seemed to corroborate Mr. Babu’s words, flood relief procedures seemed to be opaque to many citizens, dependent, as so many things are in bureaucratic India, on connections or sheer luck. I visited Selvi, a preternaturally confident ward councilor I had met at a meeting about urban policy. We spoke on her terrace in a slum near Mandaveli bus depot, and during our talk an old woman called out from below. Selvi leaned over the railing, and they had a long discussion about the woman’s complaints: the old woman had gone from the ration shop to the corporation office to the house of another councilor, and still she had not gotten her relief funds. Selvi’s reassurances that she would do everything in her power to get this woman relief seemed to satisfy her and she went back to her house. Selvi turned to me, “See, everybody only talks to me about how to get the money. They say that they will distribute all the relief before Pongal, but we are not sure. I heard that there are three hundred more tokens in the office being kept for this area.”

In my neighborhood, Tiruvanmiyur, women sat on the main East Coast Road blocking traffic for nearly half an hour demanding flood relief in their area before they were driven off by policemen. When I asked one of the protestors who was responsible for determining flood relief, she shrugged. “We don’t know all of that, but we also suffered a lot. We also need the money.” In MGR Nagar, New MGR Nagar and Manali, a mob of people dissatisfied with how flood relief was being distributed attacked a municipal chairman’s house. Another ward councilor in Ward 9 was verbally abused by a crowd of relief seekers, and she slept in her office for a few days because they threatened to attack her house.

On both sides of the Kotturpuram Bridge, there are three-story buildings constructed by the Slum Clearance Board. When waters from the Chembarmapakkam reservoir were released on December 4th after yet more rain, the Adyar River swelled, washing over the bridge and spilling into the tenements on the banks. The river then receded, but water stayed pooled in the neighborhood which was much lower than the surrounding areas, submerging the ground floor of the homes. The next morning, a large crowd of residents sat by the side of the bridge, some holding bags of their possessions. Motorists stopped to gape at boats plying the streets of the colony, ferrying residents back and forth. Some people had stayed in the buildings, mostly women still in their nightgowns who gathered in little groups on the balconies, combed their children’s hair and stared languidly at the water below and at the crowds staring back at them. The police shouted orders and tried to keep the roads clear for traffic.

Next to me, a gray haired woman, her cotton sari and white blouse wet and her hair bedraggled, debated loudly with nobody in particular whether or not to go to Gandhi Mandapam where many of the Kotturpuram residents were being housed and fed or to stay on here. “They tell us to stay in our houses or go to Gandhi Mandapam. Then they go and give saris to people who are waiting here in the crowd, so what’s the use of listening to them?” A man nodded in agreement and turned away. As if to reward her for her vigilance, a jeep filled with Sunfeast biscuit boxes pulled up to the curb. The woman hurried into the crowd closing around the jeep until the police drove them away. She waited there, and by reaching her had into a slit in the jeep’s cover, managed to make off with a large box of biscuits.

5.

I visited MGR Nagar about a month after the stampede on a hot day in the middle of the afternoon. The main road there is wide, and freshly laid tar smelled strongly in the heat. Although the thatched huts near the Cooum River which make up part of the colony could not be seen from this part of the road, MGR Nagar is visibly a low-income neighborhood. Small eateries, provisions stores, STD booths, and pawn shops also selling jewelry lined the road. A few fortune tellers sat on small tarps on the roadside, with black and silver wands and parakeets in tiny cages that would tell your future by picking from packs of cards. Movie posters with a mustached and unsmiling Thirumavalavan, the Dalit Panthers leader, holding a gun and dressed in fatigues, were plastered along low walls. I had not seen these posters so prominently advertised in any other part of the city before, perhaps giving some indication of the caste composition of the area.

I was nervous approaching the school; my whole vague project suddenly felt obscene and irreverent. I dawdled as much as I could, looking at my cell phone and making several calls to myself as if phoning for a delayed friend. Finally, I mustered up the courage to walk down the street alone to the gates of the school. The school where the stampede had occurred was located down the end of a long and narrow road off the main road. In the mid-afternoon glare with the heat reverberating off the asphalt, it seemed to my overactive imagination that death marked the road. A young man was unloading stacked cages of quiet chickens from a small lorry into a butcher’s shop. Scales and discarded fish parts from a fish vendor glimmered in the afternoon sun, and clouds of flies rose from ominous stains on the asphalt marking my arrival.

But the school itself seemed unmarked by the gruesome events. The gates were thrown open, and the slight incline up to the gate which had caused relief-seekers to fall and be trampled looked harmless. The only unusually eerie thing about the school was that even in this heat, all the doors and windows facing the courtyard were closed, so that although you could hear their squeals and chatter, you could not see the face of a single child.

Across from the school there were a couple of small shops made of plywood. In the biggest a man and a woman were sitting, manning a small fridge of sodas and packets of water, a phone, large plastic jars of biscuits and toffees—the needs of the children who attended the Arignar Anna Corporation school. This man was Muthukumar, proprietor of Thangalakshmi Stores. Muthukumar indicated behind him when I asked him where his house was.

“Everybody knew that there was money being given out,” he told me, “Everyone also knew the procedures.” He pointed to two poles on either side of the gate at the school, where policemen had strung up megaphones and made announcements for two days beforehand telling people the procedures for collecting relief. At 7:30 in the morning, relief seekers were to be given tokens, and by 9:00 they would start distributing relief. Relief seekers from three different ration shops were to be given relief at this center. They were divided by their ration shop number into three streets where they were supposed to wait for token distribution. First, each person was given a single token which he would then exchange for four tokens inside the school. These four tokens were used to collect the four kinds of relief supplies, a sari and dhoti, rice, kerosene and the money. “Everybody came and collected money,” he said. “Even engineers making 25,000 a month came and collected relief. Look at my house, we don’t need money because it rained. We had no problems. It’s those people who live in the huts near the river who need the money.”

By late evening on Saturday night, a crowd of 300 had already gathered for the next day’s relief distribution. The next day was Sunday, which meant that most people did not have work. “So they were all enjoying themselves,” said Mr. Muthukumar. “See, they had given out relief money in thousand rupee notes to prevent corruption. If you gave out relief in 100 rupee notes, the person who was handing it out could take a couple of 100s and you wouldn’t say anything because you still got 800. So they prevented corruption this way. See over there,” he pointed about 200 meters from the school gate to the liquor shop, “He closed by early evening that Saturday. Why? Because he didn’t have enough change—everyone was bringing him 1,000 rupee notes.”

The crowd swelled after 2:00 am, after the late show at the movies ended and men came to join the crowds. The policemen did their rounds and tried to keep order, but the crowd was defiant. Police cannot hit women without significant provocation and women know that. When the policemen told the women waiting in line to move away and return the next morning, the women would taunt them. “I saw a police inspector fall at the feet of a group of women and beg them to leave. Nobody left.”

“Around that time in the morning,” he continued, “it started to rain. Who would give out tokens at 4:00 in the morning? People knew that, they were not pushing to get tokens. It rained very hard, so people wanted to go inside the school and sit there. At that time this gate did not have a lock. You could just push hard on it and it would open. So people starting pushing inside to sit, and then they started falling.”

“There were too many people waiting. Poor people lost 100 rupees everyday that they could not go to work,” he said again, “Instead of giving it to us, in these concrete houses, they should have given more money to the people in the huts.”


6.

So we now have a situation in which flood relief was being given out in excessive amounts and to excessive numbers of people near an election, with no clarity on what actually constituted an affected household. We have four thousand people standing outside a government school from two in the morning, many of whom are drunk, are arriving after the late show at the movies and many of whom refuse to listen to the police. We have a handful of policemen to keep law and order who did not call in reinforcements when the crowds swelled, and Opposition party members who may or may not have panicked citizens by spreading rumors about this being the last day of relief distribution. And we have the rain, a blistering downpour, which refused to stop. So who is to blame for the stampede deaths? None of the above. Or all of the above, which is what makes participating in Indian politics such a dispiriting activity.

And yet … Pushpa, who comes to my apartment once a day to mop the floors, came to me yesterday and sheepishly asked whether she could borrow some money to pay for her daughter’s school fees. Her husband, a day laborer in construction, was not able to get work this month, and they could not pay their daughter’s school fees. There is obviously an immense need for more subsidies to the poor in this city. This is especially needed in the form of increased social security to those millions who work in the informal sector, usually the poorest residents of a city who live in the most precarious housing conditions. Flood relief was a great benefit to many, but ad hoc systems of relief funds cannot be the answer to this pressing problem. Death by stampede at a relief center during an election year could be avoided if a government system had already been in place to provide exactly the kind of social security that these workers lacked. But who has the political will to implement such a system?